2021 Viking - Paris to Normandy

This is actually 2 Viking trips joined together. First is Paris North to Normandy and back to Paris. Then is Lyon south to Avignon. We did both pieces. Others on the boats also did both pieces.

This was a weird year. The trip was first scheduled (south only) for 2020, but COVID-19 closed Viking (and travel to Europe) for a year. Since Oberammergau which we also scheduled for 2020 was also cancelled (rescheduled for 2022), we decided to do this one with Mark & Carol. We used all the future trip credit we had from 2018 cruise, as well as future travel certificates bought in 2018. Since the initial cancellation gave us a 25% additional voucher, adding the second week did not cost very much. This was a lot more work for the travel agent, and some hassles for us, mostly due to COVID.

Since we would be in Paris for several days, we decided not to get the pre-extension, since we could skip some of the Paris tours if we were too tired. We did similar tours in 2018.

COVID requirements kept changing. Everyone on the boat was required to be vaccinated – workers, customers, vendors, etc. And, we were tested EVERY DAY (saliva test), to be sure we stayed COVID-free. We also needed a negative COVID test 72 hours before leaving on the first flight – but we could cancel the trip with no penalty 24 hours before the first flight. So we had a very tight window. And the COVID test required was a PCR test; most places giving that test said the turnaround was 2-5 days, which was not possible with our tight time-frame. Luckily, the travel agent had a place in St. Louis (ArcPoint Labs of St. Louis West in Creve Coeur) where we could get results in 1 hour. We had to pay for the tests ($220 each), but we got them in plenty of time.

This is written mostly for me, so I have a record for future trips. Others may find this useful.

GENERAL:
We were just in France, so only needed euros. Due to COVID, many places were not taking cash, only credit cards.
We need to be more certain of credit cards. We took the travel VISA Card and AMEX. But VISA decided since we used the cards in St. Louis and Dallas a few hours apart that it was fraud, and blew out the card. So we only had the AMEX, which is not as accepted.
I had tried to put a travel notification on the VISA card, but online said it was not needed. Next time, call them and be sure a notification is put on the card.
We took over 1200 euros, plus some coins. We returned with over 800 euros, so really didn’t spend much. Tips for guides were over 100 euros. Amex card was used only on the boat (laundry and travel certificates), Paris Metro, and entry to St. Chapelle Cathedral in Paris.
We took the usual things (see writeup from 2018 trip) – carry bags, battery operated alarm clock, etc.
We were on boats the whole time, so had 110volt available. Al did check the 220 converter, and it did not work as expected. So we will need to get something else for future trips.
I did take some scarfs and my long skirt to “fancy up” for dinner some nights. I always need pockets, so wore a pair of shorts under the long skirt. I read 4 books on the trip, mostly on the airplanes. I had more (mostly short stories) but did not read them.
Al took the computer, and could usually check email on the boat each day. But internet was slow and spotty. Charter did not allow me to send email from Europe, but I could check it.
In the past, we have always stayed in balcony rooms. But we were rarely in the room. This year, we stayed in the rooms on the lower deck, for a lot less money. We weren’t in the room that much, except to sleep, so this is OK for future travels. We did spend more time in the lounge than before.
Big difference – in the past, many of the staff are filipino. This time, no filipinos, but most staff is Eastern European.
Most days, we ate lunch on the Terrace on the third floor – usually inside. Depending on the weather, the doors may be open to the outside of the third floor deck. Breakfast and dinner were in the dining room for us. But we enjoyed the view at lunch.
BIG NOTE HERE: there is usually an issue with availability of public restrooms in the cities. This year it was even worse, possibly due somewhat to COVID. Many were closed and locked. Others were not cleaned. NO charge, but dirty. I found DEPENDS very helpful, from a comfort factor.
I had a bunch of small euro coins, but gave them all away to others who were trying to get them for children and grandchildren. Most items are full euros or 50 cents, so you rarely get the 1cent, 2 cent, 5 cent, 10 cent, or 20 cent coins.
We have found in the past that multiple excursions in a day can be very tiring. So this trip, we only did the included excursions. We ended up doing a lot of walking on our own on other days.

DAILY:
Friday, October 1, 2021
Not really part of the trip, but required. We got our COVID tests run this afternoon in St. Louis, and got the negative results. We needed to cancel the trip by noon Sunday if we were positive. Results OK, so we finally know we are going.

Monday, October 4, 2021
Jan picked us up about 10:00. Introduce her to Bob, so he knows someone is close. Arrive at airport about 10:45. Flight is 12:45. We needed to show the vaccination card, and the negative COVID test. Both TSAPRE, so no issues. Meet M&C at the gate. Flew to Dallas, then on to Paris. Note here – we used the VISA card in STL airport, and again in Dallas airport. BofA decided to check this for fraud, so put a hold on the card. We could not use it until we called them. But I didn’t get this information until we were in Paris. And had no way to call them from there. So we did not have the VISA card for the rest of the trip. Fly AA from STL – DFW, then DFW to CDG.

Tuesday, October 5
Arrive in Paris 9:15 am. Change of 7 time zones. Much more COVID hassles. We needed to get off the plane on to a bus. Then bus to a separate building. They checked temperature and vaccination card. We had filled out entry forms, but they never asked for them. Claim luggage, meet our Viking rep. On the bus about 10:30, and to the boat about noon. We are staying within sight of the Eiffel Tower.
Boat is VIKING RADGRID, a Seine-class ship (shorter than a longship by 1 room, so it can dock in Paris).
The COVID test done 10/1 – 72 hours before the first flight – was not accepted by Viking, so they ran another one – throat swab. They also wanted to run a saliva test, with sample due by 5:00. Lunch 12:45
Walking tour of the area 3:00. It was raining hard.
NOTE: unlike earlier (mis)interpretation of an email, we CAN go off the boat whenever and wherever we want to. Please try to avoid crowds. Interesting, this boat (first one we have been on) does not have a lot of change.
4:00: wine & cheese tasting
6:00: safety life jacket drill
6:30: welcome and port talk. 91 passengers – boat holds 168, so only about ½ full
New – we need to do the COVID spit test first thing in the morning, before brushing teeth or using mouthwash. Needs to be at desk 8:00 each morning.
NOTE: if one in a cabin tests positive for COVID, it is assumed both are positive for quarantine purposes.
Dinner included escargot 10:00: stood on the top deck and watched the Eiffel Tower Light Show.

Wednesday, October 6
Up 7:00
Shore excursion “Panoramic Paris”, bus, walk, etc., mostly the same as 2018, but we did not go into Notre Dame Cathedral. We did walk around that area though.
Afternoon, went with Mark and Caroll to Sainte Chapelle. Bought a 10-pack of tickets on the Metro, using cash. Rode #10 from George Michel station to Odeon station. Walked to the ticket booth. Credit card must be used for the tickets, but they took the AMEX card OK. 11.50 euro each. Enjoyed the church very much. Took Metro back around 4:30.
Gave the extra Metro tickets to the front desk – they are useless to us, but someone there can use them.
Bought a few miscellaneous souvenirs – about 30 euro, as well as the train tickets and the admissions.
5:30: to the lounge for a silk demonstration. 7:15: Then port talk, welcome meeting.
Boat started moving 7:00.

Thursday, October 7
Parked at La Roche – Guyon
Breakfast, then an independent walk around town.
Back on the boat about 11:15
11:30: Enrichment lecture on painters along the Seine
Picked up a small piece of chirt from LaRoche-Guyon
Boat moved starting noon, docking at Vernon (Giverny) 2:00
Bus / walking tour of Monet gardens at Giverny
Visit Saint Radegonde church
Back to the boat 5:45; port talk 6:45
Dinner is a buffet of French foods

Friday, October 8
Late breakfast and COVID test (10:00 instead of 8:00)
Boat is sailing this morning.
10:00: talk by Captain. Radgrid was built in 2019, commissioned in 2020, and first run in July 2021. We were only the 10th voyage on the boat. It is a seine-class ship, about 40 feet shorter than a regular Viking Longship.
Length: 410 feet
Max passengers: 168, (with COVID, limit is 150 for table separation) We have 91 passengers
There are 52 crew – 7 to run the boat and 45 for hospitality
Later Mia gave the standard Viking sales pitch for future trips. We can use shipboard credit (we have none) to buy the future trip certificates. We chose to buy 1 each, as we will probably do another cruise.
We think all the boats are built in Rotterdam.
We sat on the sundeck for a while.
Walking tour of Rouen 1:45 – 3:45. Then walk around the city on our own for a while. Back on the boat 5:30.
Note on Viking efficiency – I started the laundry bag we wanted to go out Saturday morning, then went to dinner, planning to put today’s clothes in the bag. But the room attendant cam in while we were at dinner, and took it. Not what we expected, but OK. The later sent a note letting us know the shirt counts on the list were wrong, but we were only charged for what was there.

Saturday, October 9
This is the only really long day of the trip. Bus tour to Normandy beaches in almost 12 hours long. 2 hour drive to Normandy, see the museum, cemetery and then the beaches. Lunch is at the Museum
We woke up before the alarm at 5:45. Boat is at high tide. Al went to top deck to take some pictures
Long day, but good to say we have been there.

Sunday, October 10
Boat started moving about 5:45 am. I actually felt the movement and heard the motors.
10:30: disembarkation meeting – some going to planes, some to Paris extension, 49 to the second week of the trip. Instructions in the Viking Daily. Originally, everyone on the “France’s Finest” tour went on both boats (according to travel agent and Viking), but that changed with COVID and the desire to fill the few boats running.
For us, luggage out 6:00 am, leave boat 9:00 am, train 11:00, arrive Lyon 1:10 pm. Our luggage will travel by truck while we are on the train. Cooking demo – lemon meringue tart
2:00 – 3:30: walking tour of Les Andeles, a nice little town.
VES party. As 70 of the 91 on board are on multiple trips (some as many as 9) everyone attended. They had a really neat display of various drinks, as well as the aquavit for the final toast.

Monday, October 11
9:30: visit to Napoleon’s house at Malmaison.
Cruise to Paris
They had “tea time” in the lounge. Each 2 people got a 3-layer rack of various snack items / pastries – lots of food.
Nice dinner

Tuesday, October 12
Everything worked as expected on the move from Radgrid to Heimdal via TGV train.
Arrive Heimdal (built 2013) about 2:00, lunch, then a walking tour of Lyon, followed by a wine and cheese tasting.
Safety / life vest drill 6:15
6:30: port talk and welcome briefing
Lisette from Holland is tour director
Hotel manager – Alexandra.
Also customer service manager, housekeeping manager, and first officer are female. Only management males are captain, chef, bar manager, and maitre d.
Boat holds 190. We have 103, of which 80 have done prior Viking trips. 49 went from Radgrid to Heimdal

Wednesday, October 13
Boat is in Lyon We are on the included Panoramic Lyon tour at 9:00. Saw lots of nice things. Took the bus back; lunch 1:00.
This afternoon, we went to watch the trains, then went to the train station to see more trains.
About 3:50, I fell getting back on the boat (on the ramp) and hit my head and scratched my glasses. Also a lot of bruises (knee and hip)
Back at 4:00 to see the presentation on the Resistance
6:45 welcome meeting
Meet the crew – 1 captain, 1 first officer (his wife), 1 engineer, 5 sailors, 1 apprentice sailor.

Thursday, October 14
Bruises, but OK. Head feels OK and I slept OK. Scratches in new glasses can be felt, so aren’t just dirt. Put on the old pair instead
8:30: shore excursion “Beaujolais Wine Country” 1 white, 3 reds. As a COVID thing, each bus went to a different winery, so there were only about 30 people at each one, instead of 100+.
Back to boat for lunch
Silk screen printing demonstration
Afternoon – river cruising into Vienne
Dinner was the big buffet – taste of Provence.

Friday, October 15
In Vienne. Walking tour 9:30. Then we independently walked to the top of the hill to the church and overlook of the Roman Theater. We then went to the Roman theater, and paid to see it. Really neat, but the steps were somewhat scary – no handrails.
Back on boat by 1:00 for river cruising.
3:30 talk with the engineer and first officer.
Lisette gave the standard Viking sales pitch for future cruises.
VES party. 80 people of the 103 on board are members. Big display of drinks.

Saturday, October 16
Short walking tour of Tournon, then a bus trip to the Steam train. Nice Mallet engines, run mostly by volunteers.
Back to the boat for more scenic cruising.
Afternoon cooking demo – chocolate lava cake
I had gone to the afternoon “tea” on the other boat – a LOT of food. So chose not to go this time, as we are eating way too much. 7:00: port talk, then dinner.
At port talk, we were told someone had tested positive. They were put off the boat and into quarantine in a hotel for 5 days, with a Viking rep with them the whole time. It was someone who got on in Paris, not someone from the other boat.
9:15 pm: stop in Viviers for a night walk around the city. Really interesting. Back to the boat 11:00
Check with United – we are still showing an empty middle seat for the return flight

Sunday, October 17
Today, we are docked in Tarascon, with a 20-minute bus ride to Arles. After breakfast, we bus to Arles for a walking tour. Back for lunch. Afternoon, we can shuttle back into Arles, but we chose to walk around Tarascon, a nice little town.
6:30: disembarkation instructions.
Boat is on the move to Avignon.
They ran out of diet coke!
They introduced the entire kitchen staff – 1 executive chef, 8 chefs, 2 dishwashers. Never saw this before on a cruise.

Monday, October 18
Walking tour of Avignon and the Pope’s palace. Lunch, then walk on our own all afternoon
Captain’s cocktail party

Tuesday, October 19
Suitcases out 6:00, leave the boat 6:45. Some people left as early as 3:00 am. Bus to Marseille airport, about 1.5 hours.
There were 21 on our bus to the airport, going on the same flight from Marseille to Frankfort. Airport is under construction. There was a Viking rep to help us all get checked in. Lots of walking carrying your stuff from parking lot to Lufthansa/ United.
Interestingly, we have worn cloth masks the entire trip. Lufthansa says we need to wear the surgical masks. I had them, so we switched. Baggage checked all the way through.
Arrive in Frankfort 12:15. Our flight to Houston leaves in less than an hour. This is a real issue, since we need to go through passport control. Line is very long, and only 3 booths open. According to airport person there, we should have allowed at least 3 hours in Frankfort airport. Anyway, we finally get through, and get on as about the last people to get on the plane. We did get the whole row. Watch several movies on the flight.
Arrive Houston on time about 5:30. Now we need to enter the US. We have 3 hours. Even with Mobile Passport and Global Entry, it took over an hour to get through. They had at least 2 big planes arrive at the same time, then only had 4 lines open in the ‘global entry’ side of things. So it took a long time.
When we go to claim our suitcases, they were already off the baggage claim. We got them, and exited to the belt to recheck to our final destination.
Then we needed to go through security again. This time, they did not have a TSAPRE line, so we had the shoes and computers issues that we usually avoid. Finally get through that, too. It is now after 7:00.
Houston Intercontinental has to be the most confusing and screwed up airport I have ever been in as far as trying to find your gate. Concourses are discontinuous, they criss-cross each other. We finally get to our gate – carrying our carry-on bags – about 7:30.
Arrive home on time, luggage came up quickly. We got a cab, and arrived at the house 11:00. Paid taxi $50; actual fare was $40.

October 4, 2021

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